LET'S HAVE SOME FUN

You need to dedicate at least one room as your rec room. It could be the bonus room over the garage or a refurbished basement. Then you need to put in a billiard table, card playing table, fooz ball table and more recreation pieces for family and friends-over fun.

tip: view the rec room ideas

It is one of the easiest things to do, but it is also one of the most overlooked steps in choosing a home contractor: verifying references. All of the good contractors readily offer them -- local people who have used their services previously. Granted, the names on their list likely include only satisfied customers, but you can't know that for sure unless you check their references.

Be Thorough With Reference Checking

Checking references can reveal much about a company including how long they were on the job and whether everything went according to plan. When checking references the following is a good rule of thumb to help you determine if a home contractor is someone you want to use or not:

Contact At Least Three Customers -- If you're given a short list of customers, then your home contractor may not have built up enough local clients for you to contact. Regardless, contact at least three of these people in order to get a clearer idea of what he has to offer you. If he cannot offer a minimal number of clients, do you really want to have him working in your home?

What To Ask -- Your best bet is to have a phone conversation with the client instead of exchanging emails or leaving messages.  Ask each reference what work they had done, whether they were satisfied with the work, if the final costs were close to what was estimated and whether they'd use the contractor again.  You can also ask if they were on time for their appointments, communicated with the homeowner, if there were problems with the work and whether they cleaned up after themselves.

Consider A Drive By -- Recently, we contacted several references for a window contractor and were impressed by the positive feedback received. Though we didn't use the company - too expensive -- we learned a lot about the way that they work. Importantly, because we were dealing with windows, we were offered the opportunity to drive by several homes to see the project as completed. This can be more difficult when you're discussing an interior renovation, but you may find that some people are all too glad to show up a contractor's work to a complete stranger.

Use Spreadsheets With Bigger Jobs

The larger the job, i.e. -- If I'm doing a complete home renovation between having new windows put in, the more thorough I am about obtaining references.  This means that I'll not only have conversations with three, four or five or more people, but I'll also make sure that I get a lot of detailed information from each. You can scribble all of that information down on paper or you can create spreadsheets to track what people had to say too. Either way, the more information you have the better you'll do when it comes to finding a qualified contractor.

Lastly, check with your local Better Business Bureau and Chamber of Commerce to learn if the company is properly licensed as stated. You'll want to deal with someone who is licensed, has their own insurance and gets all of the permits from the town to complete your project.

2009/05/26 home improvement

If you're planning a home improvement project for this year or next, you may want to take a look at the legislation that President Barack H. Obama signed into law on February 17, 2009. That bill, known as the American Recovery and Reinvestment Tax Act of 2009, is a $787 billion stimulus/pork initiative that includes some important benefits for homeowners.

In particular, if you are looking to replace windows, doors and skylights on your home, you could receive a significant rebate on your federal taxes.

The new bill actually modifies the tax credits for windows, doors and skylights established in the Energy Policy Act of 2005, which was signed into law by President George W. Bush on August 8, 2005, containing the following provisions according to the Energy Star program which is part of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency:

• To qualify for the tax credit, windows, doors, and skylights placed in service after February 17, 2009 must have a U-factor and Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) less than or equal to 0.30. You can find the U-factor and SHGC on the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC) label. See an example of the NFRC label. NFRC is the only federally recognized organization for determining the energy performance of windows, doors and skylights. Please see the NFRC website for information concerning product performance.
• Qualifying products purchased between February 17, 2009 and December 31, 2010 are eligible for a tax credit equal to 30 percent of the product cost. The maximum amount of homeowner credit for all improvements combined (including roofing, insulation, HVAC, and water heaters) is $1,500 during 2009 and 2010.
• For products purchased between January 1, 2009 and February 16, 2009, the terms of the tax credit are less clear. The Internal Revenue Service will likely clarify these terms in guidance documents, which are expected to be released later this year.

Definitely, the new law adds hundreds of billions of dollars to the US debt, something that the American taxpayer must consider when pursuing this type of tax rebate. Still, with the money on the table, many homeowners will likely consider what amounts to be a huge tax incentive, giving them as much as $1500 back on their qualified home improvement project.

Source: Energy Star

2009/04/28 home improvement

We replaced the gutters on our home less than two years ago when we had the roof replaced. Good thing too: the gutters were in bad shape, leaking in several places and starting to pull away from the home. By replacing several backboards (fascia) holding the gutters in place as well, we've nipped our home drainage problems in the bud.

Recently, a branch from a nearby tree fell, hitting the front gutter with a glancing blow. Initially, the damage wasn't apparent, but as time passed by we can now see that the gutter is bent and pulling ever so slightly away from the house. With the last storm we noticed that rainwater isn't draining properly, meaning it is time for me to get back up on a ladder to make a repair.

While elevated, I'll be looking for the following to make sure that everything is in order:

Clean out gutters -- I schedule two full gutter clean outs each year -- once in the Spring and once in the Fall. But, because I live in an area that has lots of trees, I'll put up the ladder at various times of the year to do a quick inspection, making sure that my gutters and downspouts are clear especially before tackling a repair project.

Examine fascia -- If any part of gutter is separating from the fascia, then I'll replace bent or broken gutter hangars as necessary. Usually, all that means is one hook needs to be replaced which should take care of the problem at once.

Check seams and joiners -- Because modern gutter systems contain ten foot long sections, I'll have fewer seams and gutter joiners to deal with. Still, I will make sure that the seams are sealed and that the joiners are doing their job.

Verifying gutter pitch -- If water doesn't drain out of the gutters properly after I make my repairs, then I'll attribute that problem to the gutter's pitch. In that case, I'll bring in a professional to verify my findings and make the adjustment for me. Sometimes it pays to have a trained professional handle the problem, especially if you don't have all of the equipment needed to make repairs or if you hate to climb a ladder.

Gutter shields -- Leaf strainers are popular, but I don't use them. My experience with them is that they still have to be removed seasonally and the gutters cleaned out thanks to pine needles and pollen which always seem to find their way in. Still, they can be a good idea to have in place if you find yourself needing to check the gutters monthly.

Once my gutters are back to snuff, then I know that they'll do the job they're supposed to do. Until then, I won't rest until I'm confident that the repair is done, not giving much thought to my gutters and downspouts until after the autumn leaves have finished falling.

2009/04/21 home improvement

Garden beds all across the country are coming alive as the spring season advances. But that also means that weeds are sprouting alongside of flowers and watering will soon be necessary to keep gardens in shape.

The Advantages of Mulching

One way that homeowners are tackling their gardens is by mulching. Mulch does several things: keeps weeds at bay, helps to retain and distribute water evenly and beautifies the garden.

Before you run out and purchase mulch, do you have something in your yard that will serve the purpose? Some gardeners prefer to go as natural (and inexpensive) as possible when mulching, using grass clippings to protect beds. Where I live, pine trees are prevalent and pine straw makes a wonderful and attractive mulch. Best of all, it is free.

Natural or Man Made Mulch

When choosing a mulch, do you want to go with something that is natural and will break down over time or will you use something man made that will endure for many years to come?  With the latter category rocks, rubber and plastic are common choices, mulch that will last for many years.

Steps To Successful Mulching

When preparing a garden to be mulched, I like to take the following steps:

Remove debris -- Pull up weeds, remove rocks and give your garden a good picking over. Of course, you don't want to remove plants and flowers that are part of your garden, but prepping the soil to receive the mulch will mean you'll have less to deal with later. This is a good time to get rid of old mulch too.

Paper or plastic -- I'm not one to lay down a layer of newspaper or plastic on my beds as I find that this method tends to retain more water than what I want. Not everyone is in agreement with me on this point, so all I can say is consider what you're putting down and whether it'll break up over time and whether that will leave you having to pull it all out at the end of the growing season.

Buy your mulch -- This time of year home garden centers (nursery) are selling mulch by the bag and at some of the best prices. If  you need a lot of mulch, consider ordering it by the cubic foot. You'll want to have enough mulch to provide two to four inches of cover, so multiply your garden's width and length by the depth of the mulch to know how much mulch to order. Also check with your community's recycling center which will often grind up leaves and other garden refuse and turn that into mulch. Free too!

Spread the mulch -- Use a rake to spread the mulch, creating an even layer throughout the garden. I like to leave less mulch around existing plants in order to give them some room to breath. In addition, if you still have some bulbs to plant, leave areas of your garden unmulched until you are done with that.

Finally, when using natural mulch you'll want to make sure that it is free of seeds and diseased dead plants, both of which can harm your garden. You can make your own screen to remove debris while keeping your eye out for tiny seeds which can slip through.

2009/04/17 home improvement

When we moved into our current home five years ago, tucked into one corner of the backyard was an aged aluminum shed. Five years later, that shed is still standing, but barely.

Years ago I decided that I would never buy a metal shed for the simple reasons that they don't last all that long and they also don't have the interior walk around space needed to make them all that useful beyond storing a lawn mower, garden supplies and other smaller items.

What Type of Foundation to Use

My next shed will be a lot like my neighbor Jerry's shed, built out of wood and sitting on a semi-permanent foundation. Where I live if you pour concrete in order to provide a permanent foundation, then you need a permit and approval from your neighbors. But, if you set it on top of solid-concrete blocks, then the town is okay with that and your neighbor's complaints won't stick.

One of the reasons that people go with aluminum sheds is that they are so darn cheap. In fact, I've seen them retailing for just under $300 at my local big box retailer, a tempting low price for the person who needs outdoor storage but doesn't want to pay a whole lot for it.

If you build a wooden shed, then all you'll have to pay for is the components: wood, roofing materials, hinges, flooring, etc. But, most people choose to buy a completed structure, one with a window (and requisite flower box), door, shingled roof and permanent flooring.

Size Does Matter

Assuming that you're happy with a wooden structure, one that is certain to withstand many years of usage and all sorts of weather conditions, you'll want one big enough to serve your needs. Size does matter, but there is something to think about when choosing the right shed for your yard: if you organize it properly can you make better use of a smaller unit? I believe that you can.

Jerry's shed is bigger (24x20) than what I need (16x12), fairly well organized, but it could be better arranged especially when it comes to maximizing storage capacity. The one thing he did that I really like is that he hung fluorescent shop lights from the ceiling which provides adequate lighting and doesn't get in the way of the tallest worker. With an 8' pitched ceiling, two adjoining shop lights hang just inches from the top, with his only fear that someone might hit the bulbs with a rake or a broom.

Organizing Wall By Wall

On one wall, Jerry has taken peg board and cut it so that it covers the entire wall from top to bottom. That wall has several dozen wire peg hooks hanging from it, where he hangs rope, cords, spackle, paint brushes and anything else that won't pull away from the board. Bought in bulk, hooks of the same size should cost you about 30 cents each.

On a second wall, Jerry makes good use of putting up shelving, placed just above his work bench. Home Depot, Lowe's and similar stores can cut the wood to size, so pick up some L brackets and you can nail them into the studs. Use left over wood to fill in blank spaces underneath for additional shelving, which can hold small paint cans, varnish, oils, cleaning solutions, etc.

Along the third wall is where Jerry lines up his lawn mower, seeder and stores waste cans. If your workbench is tall enough, some of these things could be stored underneath, but I like Jerry's arrangement because he can quickly get what he needs and leave. Besides, underneath his work area he  has plastic bins filled with all kinds of stuff including screws, nails, gardening material, you name it. Those plastic bins, by the way, were once filled with kitty leader making for a reusable and useful way to store stuff.

The fourth wall is one which has both the door and the lone window to his shed on it. Thus, the only storage area he has on that wall is immediately below the window. I got Jerry to hang up several smaller hooks which hold various bags containing gloves, towels, paper goods and the like.

With mostly everything hanging from a wall or pushed up against a wall, there is plenty of room to walk around the interior without tripping over this or that, making it easier to enter, exit and move around the shed thanks to wise use of space.

2009/03/30 home improvement